Yes, we do. We offer a standard 2-year parts and labor warranty on new installations.

Extended Warranty Important Information
When purchasing new equipment, we strongly recommend you purchase the additional 10 Year parts and labor warranty, an excellent value especially with the cost of parts steadily increasing. You can ask your consultant about this offer or call the office within 1 year of purchasing your new equipment to purchase the warranty. The extended warranty covers:

• No overtime fees
• No labor charges
• No charge for Freon
• Breakers for HVAC system
• New condenser electrical disconnect 
• No hidden costs

You can call Nancy Pope at 228-497-2285 to discuss purchasing the extended warranty.
 

We recommend changing your filter(s) every 30 days. A good reminder is to change your filter(s) when you pay your power bill each month.

We offer several different types of thermostats. The Project Manager or Service Technician who installs your new thermostat will set it up for you and show you how to operate. But if you have any questions about operating the thermostat after we leave, please call the office at 228-497-2285 and we will assist you

When this happens, we are a phone call away to get you cooling again.

There is, however, a common fix that is easy for you to resolve and involves the water safety switch. (The water safety switch, also called a “wet switch,” is a hockey puck-like device that sits in the floor of your return air and is designed to cut the system off I there is a major water leak.) If you look into the return air and see the red indicator light illuminated on the safety switch, you can often dry and reset to resume normal operation of your unit. To dry and reset the switch, lift it from floor and dry the bottom with a paper towel or hair dryer. Next, press and hold the “Reset” button down for seven (7) seconds. Then green indicator light should come on and your system should start cooling again within five (5) minutes or less. Place the safety switch back into a saucer, not the floor. Next, call us and we’ll come out to assess what is causing the water leak.
This is intended as a temporary fix to keep you cooling until we come out to assess the problem.
 

Keeping your drains clean and clear is one of the most important maintenance tasks you can do on your HVAC system. In the cooling season, you should pour two (2) full cups of vinegar followed by two (2) cups of water down your drain every month. In the heating season, you should follow the instructions above for your drain every six (6) weeks. Following this direction will keep your HVAC system draining well and prevent water leaks with the added benefit of keeping your drain trap full to prevent sewage gasses from entering your home.
DO NOT USE CLOROX TO CLEAN YOUR DRAIN. CLOROX WILL DAMAGE YOUR EVAPORATOR COIL.

We offer an automatic pump system designed to deliver a slow drip of cleaning solution that will keep your drain clear, and your evaporator coil pan clear of sludge. The tank holds over three (3) gallons of a 1:1 vinegar and water mix and sits either in your return or in attic, depending on where your air handler is set. We recommend you monitor the tank every month when you change your filters to ensure it is full.
 

In the spring and summer months, it is best to set your thermostat fan mode to “auto.” Doing so will help control the humidity in your home, which is essential for our coastal region.

Installing a programmable thermostat will help you take control of how much energy you use to heat and cool your home. With a programmable thermostat, you can also set the HVAC cooling and heating temperatures to follow your daily and weekend schedule, e.g., running less while you’re at work during the week or away on weekends.

Running your system at 68 – 70 degrees 24 hours per day in this climate will likely cause your ductwork, air handler, and evaporator coil to condensate badly (called “sweating”,) which can cause water staining on your ceiling. Running the system continually can also degrade and damage the compressor.

If you’re having to run your system at 68 degrees to stay comfortable, there may me some other issues we need to address, such as the size of your return air, adjusting your air handler blower speed, inadequate attic insulation, outside air infiltration, high humidity, the location of your thermostat, etc. 

Please call us to set up a free consultation.
 

The humidity level in your home should never exceed 60%. If you feel you are having a problem with the humidity level in your home, please call us for a free evaluation.

Yes. Having the appropriate level of attic insulation is important to the operation and efficiency of your HVAC system. To little attic insulation can cause the HVAC system to run more, which increases your power bill and puts more mechanical strain on your system over time, thus increasing likelihood for mechanical failure. The power companies recommend a thermal resistance value (R-value) of R-38. For years, it was R-30, and we still think that is sufficient
IMPORTANT: We offer blown-in insulation. However, should you decide to hire an insulation contractor, it is very important they do not cover your ductwork with insulation. Doing so will cause the duct work to condensate and damage your ceiling.

Should I consider foam insulation?
There are advantages and disadvantages to foam insulation, so the best advice is to consult with your contractor who will help you decide if foam insulation, either open cell or closed cell, is right for your home.

Some regular customer concerns are:

• Open cell is better than closed cell foam for underside of roof as a roof leak is detectable.
• Termite control contractors often do not guarantee protection for foamed homes; however, there is a termite control spray that can be applied to the wood structure before foaming for added protection.
• Closed cell foam is best for under your house.

Here is a list of reputable local foam insulation contractors who can help you:
    Robbie Lazaro -- 985-966-1660
    Quality Insulation -- 800-231-6074
    Coastal Foam Insulation --  251-471-3311
    All South Foam -- 228-860-6697    
 

Yes. If your copper freon lines (the copper tubing that runs between your outside condenser and inside air handler) run through your attic, you need to alert your roofing contractor so he and his crew can avoid driving roofing nails through the copper tubing and creating a freon leak. Also, your roofer will need to be sure the flue pipe (furnace exhaust) isn’t covered up by new roof.

There are operational differences between a heat pump system and straight cool system:

• The outside condensing unit will run in summer and in winter.
• When in winter (heating) mode, the condenser will go into defrost mode, in which the condenser fan will stop but the compressor will continue to run to melt any temporary ice that may form on the condenser coils. This may cause water to accumulate around the base of the condenser, which is normal.
• When your heat pump goes into defrost mode, you may hear a strange noise (like pressure releasing) coming from your equipment. This is normal and nothing to worry about.
• When in defrost mode, your electric heat strips in your air handler (inside unit) will come on to warm the inside air while your outside unit is defrosting.
• When in defrost mode, you may notice steam rising from your condenser (outside unit.) Again, this is normal and nothing to worry about.
   

Yes. You should have a remote humidistat that measures the humidity level under your house. It is very important you check this remote sensor on a regular basis to ensure the humidity level in your crawlspace does not exceed 65%. If it goes higher than 65%, please call us as this must be addressed to prevent rotting to your crawlspace structure, mildew, and damage to your floors.

Yes. Regularly scheduled maintenance of your HVAC system will ensure your equipment is operating at peak efficiency and extend the life of your equipment. Our ESA (Energy Savings Agreement) Maintenance Plan offers a precision tune-up on your system two (2) times per year. The tune-up normally takes between 2-3 hours and includes:

• Cleaning and flushing your drains
• Cleaning the outside condenser unit
• Cleaning the inside air handler unit
• Pulling and cleaning the blower assembly
• Cleaning the evaporator coil
• Checking operation of full system to ensure peak efficiency

With an ESA Agreement, you also get the added benefits of:

• No overtime charges
• Same-day service
• 20% discount on all service calls

If interested, please call us so we can review the plan with you in more detail.
 

We offer several different options that do an excellent job of keeping your indoor air clean. One offering, the APCOX UV provides your family with clean, allergen-free air while also preventing mildew and bacteria from accumulating in your air conditioning system. Call Nancy Pope, our Inside Sales and Indoor Air Quality expert at 228-497-2285, and she’ll be happy to walk your through our available options.

Yes, your UV light will require maintenance after so many hours of operation. While the bulb might be lit up after extended use, it may have lost the germ-killing properties. The bulb life and replacement cost for our popular brands are:
    APCOX: 3-year bulb life: replacement cost is $270 plus tax
    SPEEDLIGHT JR.: 1 year bulb life: replacement cost is $180 plus tax
    REME HALO: 2-3 year bulb life: replacement cost is $325 plus tax
    AIR SCRUBBER:  1 year bulb life: replacement cost is $315 plus tax
 

Our employees are the backbone of our company, and we choose them wisely. 

• We are a drug-free company and ALL our employees (owners, technicians, office personnel) are drug-tested randomly. 
• Every employee is background checked.
• All our technicians, project managers, and installers receive continuing education and training to ensure they are the absolute best at what they do.

All employees will respect you, your family, and your property and can be trusted to work in your home.